Why 'Fresh' Fish Is Rarely the Best Choice at the Seafood Counter

It's often said that we eat with our eyes, and that old maxim certainly applies to buying fish. In fact, when deciding on a slab of salmon or a plump whole branzino, many of our senses should come into play—including common sense! Shopping for seafood can be overwhelming, so we spoke to seafood professionals to learn what to seek out. Our experts shared pointers on how to hook the best catch available, whether you need fillets or whole fish. Also, find out what commonly used terms actually mean so you can better understand what you are buying.

Pro Tips for Buying Fish

Buying fish can be an adventure—especially if you shop at a seafood specialist offering a wonderland of choices—but it can also be overwhelming, especially for those more familiar with tins of tuna than tuna steaks. Whether you're a skilled home cook or a novice, knowing what to look for and the right questions to ask fishmongers can make the difference between a meal to remember—and one best forgotten. Texture, smell, and color are all paramount when purchasing seafood.

Appearance: Once at the fish counter, look for selections that appear vibrant, with even coloration and no brown spots or dark edges. The flesh should look moist, and if there's any liquid, it should be clear, not milky.

Smell: Your olfactory senses should inform your choice, too. "Fresh fish should smell like the ocean: clean, briny, and mild," says Steven Wong, owner of Aqua Best, a Manhattan-based seafood purveyor that supplies high-end restaurants. A faint cucumber scent also gets a thumbs up. Don't take the plunge if you detect pungent, rancid, or spoiled odors, or a whiff of ammonia.

Texture: Not every fishmonger will grant you access, but if you're able to touch the fish, it can be telling: "The meat should feel firm, and slightly springy; your fingers should not leave indentations," says Robert Digregorio, director of seafood quality at the legendary Fulton Fish Market in Hunts Point, Bronx, NYC.

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Fish Terminology and the Best Fish to Buy

When fish shopping, you'll likely encounter these standard phrases.

"Fresh" Fish

Most discussions of fish involve the term "fresh," which doesn't necessarily indicate that it was swimming in the sea hours ago. "'Fresh' does not mean just out of the water—it can be up to two weeks old and still be considered 'fresh' as long as it's never been frozen," Digregorio says.

The fish is kept on ice or refrigerated from the time it's caught or harvested (if it's farm-raised) until purchased for tonight's dinner. When handled properly, fish are often in pristine conditions for three to four days after harvesting, Wong adds.

Frozen-at-Sea (the Best Choice)

Fishmongers also sell "frozen-at-sea" (FAS) fish, which, surprise, is often superior to fresh fish because it's flash-frozen on the vessel just a few hours after it's out of the water. It's super frozen and kept frozen en route to the retail store or restaurant, leaving little time for decomposition, Digregorio explains. "By contrast, fresh, never-frozen fish may be out of the water for a week before it is purchased and eaten, during which significant decomposition can occur—especially if the cold chain is broken," he says.

Previously Frozen

This umbrella term encompasses fish frozen at sea and in processing plants,

Sushi-Grade

Fish lovers may assume that selections labelled sushi-grade and sashimi-grade are the pinnacle of excellence, and yes, those terms indicate high-quality fish suitable for eating raw in dishes like ceviche and crudo. Nevertheless, they're subjective since they lack official government designation or industry standards. "The FDA requires most fish intended for raw consumption to be frozen for safety, with time and temperature requirements ranging from seven days at -4°F to 15 hours at -31° degrees Fahrenheit," Digregorio says. Some tuna species, including yellowfin, bigeye, bluefin, and albacore, are exempt from this requirement.

Buying Whole Fish vs Fish Fillets

Whole Fish: Purchasing whole fish means all of the body parts, from head to tail, are intact. "When looking at the whole fish, check that it has a nice sheen and that the colors are bright and distinct," suggests Wong. "Do the eyes look clear? Are the gills red?" asks Digregorio.

Wong also zeroes in on the eyes for signs of freshness, "The eyes should generally curve outwards, like the back of a spoon," he says,

Fish Fillets: Preparing whole fish usually entails deboning, scaling, gutting, and beheading the sea creature, a task for you—or your fishmonger. Fillets, or boneless pieces of fish, offer greater ease—and distinct hallmarks of quality.

"Fillets should also have a sheen—they should not look dried out or like they're splitting apart," Digregorio says. If it's too soft, even mushy, that's an indication that the fillets have been sitting out too long, Wong notes.

Seafood Certifications

When bellying up to the fish counter, Digregorio suggests looking for the following seafood certifications:

MSC (Marine Stewardship Council) Certification: This label indicates that wild-caught fish comes from a sustainably managed fishery. 

BAP (Best Aquaculture Practices) and ASC (Aquaculture Stewardship Council) Certification: These labels indicate responsibly farmed seafood that meets strict environmental, animal welfare, worker safety, and food safety standards.

Red Flags

Labeling can also raise red flags, Digregorio says. For instance, if a store offers vague descriptions like "salmon" or "tuna" without specifying the species, forge on. "When products are labeled more specifically—beyond just 'salmon,'—it often means the staff can share details about origin, handling, and quality," Wong adds.

Terms, like "fresh-caught" and "organic," are largely meaningless. "Everything is fresh when it's caught, and seafood in the U.S. cannot legally be labeled 'organic' because the FDA has not established standards for organic seafood, whether farmed or wild," Digregorio explains.

Talk to the Fishmonger

If you want to be better informed about the fish you're cooking and eating, shop at a fishmonger or store that knows its sources, Wong says. "Finding a fishmonger you trust can be one of life's great relationships—okay, maybe that's a bit overstated, but you should feel comfortable asking questions," Digregorio says. "Ask if it was previously frozen, when it arrived, how often they get deliveries, and what they'd take home to their own family," he suggests.

Cooking Seafood at Home

Time and temperature also factor into home preparation. Ideally, you should buy and cook your fish the same day. If that's not possible, store it in the coldest part of your refrigerator and use it within two to three days, Digregorio says.