The Right Way to Stain Wood, According to Pro Woodworkers

Staining a coffee table you found at a thrift shop or the outdated dresser you’ve had for years may seem like a simple weekend project, but the process can be a bit more involved than one might think. Everything from the type of wood you’re working with to the stain you choose and how well you prepare the piece all dictate how high-end your finish and color turn out. To make the process a little more seamless, we consulted two professional woodworkers who shared their tips and step-by-step instructions for staining wood.

How to Choose a Wood Stain

Choosing a wood stain comes down to personal preference. "Oil-based stains provide richer color and longer working time, while water-based stains dry quickly with low odor and more uniform results. Gel stains offer the most control by sitting closer to the surface, making them ideal for tricky woods and refinishing," says Jeffrey McKenna, a woodworker at KJP Select Hardwoods.

Also consider the type of wood you're working with and the desired color depth when choosing a stain. "Open-grain woods stain easily (think oaks and ash), while blotch-prone species like maple, birch, and pine benefit from gel stains or conditioning," says McKenna. "Oil-based stains provide richer color and longer working time, while water-based stains dry quickly with low odor and more uniform results. Gel stains offer the most control by sitting closer to the surface, making them ideal for tricky woods and refinishing."

Materials Needed

Achieving a beautiful stain requires both careful prep work and a methodical application. Here’s what you’ll need to get the job done right:

• Stain of choice
• Stir stick
• Pre-stain conditioner
• Cleaner or degreaser (ex. Krud Kutter)
• Drop cloths
• Gloves
• Mineral spirits
• Lint-free cloths
• Brush or sponge
• Topcoat (varnish, shellac, lacquer, or other wood finish)
• Coarse-grit sandpaper
• Finer-grit sandpaper
• Orbital sander (if staining a larger project)
• Wet/dry vacuum
• Compressed air
• LED flashlight
• Old clothing/shoes

How to Prepare Wood for Staining

The key to a smooth finish lies with the proper prep work. The piece needs to be cleaned, sanded, and cleaned again before any stain is applied.

1. In a well-ventilated area, lay down your drop cloths to protect nearby surfaces and floors.
2. Put on gloves, old clothing, and shoes you don’t mind potentially staining.
3. Using a wood cleaner or degreaser (experts recommend Krud Kutter) and a clean cloth, wipe the wood off to remove dirt and grime.
4. Ensure the wood is completely dry before sanding.
5. Starting with coarse-grit sandpaper (and working your way to finer-grit sandpaper), sand with the grain to remove old finishes and smooth out rough spots. McKenna recommends progressing through grits without skipping more than one level to help prevent swirl or "pigtail" marks in the wood.
6. Go over the wood surface with an LED flashlight. McKenna says this is key to revealing scratches or imperfect areas you should correct before moving on to the next steps.
7. Next, use your wet/dry vacuum to remove as much dust as possible from the wood.
8. Using compressed air, blow off any remaining dust from the piece.
9. Lightly dampen a clean, lint-free cloth with mineral spirits and wipe down the wood.
10. Allow the wood to dry completely before proceeding to staining.

How to Stain Wood

Once the piece is prepped, you can apply the stain. Always work with the grain to avoid a streaky finish.

1. If you’re working with blotch-prone woods, such as maple, pine, or birch, McKenna recommends applying a pre-stain conditioner according to the box directions.
2. Allow the pre-stain conditioner to fully sink into the surface, and wipe off any excess before staining.
3. Using a stir stick, thoroughly stir the stain.
4. Apply the stain to the wood surface with a brush or sponge, working in manageable sections with the grain.
5. Before the stain dries, use a clean, lint-free cloth to wipe away (with the grain) any excess stain. Visual cues are the way to evaluate when the stain is ready to be wiped off. "The stain should darken to the depth you want, and the surface should look wet but not pooling," McKenna says.
6. Allow the stained wood to thoroughly dry before applying a top coat. Marshall recommends waiting around a week.
7. Seal the wood with a topcoat of varnish, shellac, lacquer, or other wood finish, Marshall says.  

Related Stories

8 Ways to Make Outdated Wood Cabinets Look Fresh and Stylish Again

3 Foolproof Ways to Whitewash Wood in Your Home

Staining Tips

If you want your stain to turn out showroom-ready, heed this advice from our pros:

• Prepare properly (and go slowly): Take your time sanding and cleaning, McKenna says. This will generally alleviate most common issues, like the wood not accepting the stain evenly.
• Always stir the stain: "Never shake stain or clear coat to avoid bubbles that can affect application," McKenna says. A stir stick, like what you’d use to stir a regular can of paint, is the best way to mix the product.
• Don’t touch the surface before it’s dried: This keeps fingerprints and smudges out of the picture (and off the wood), which makes the stained piece look more high-end, McKenna adds.
• Apply stain to a sample piece: Test the stain on a sample piece of wood to see how it reacts. If you don’t have a sample piece to use as a sacrifice, test the stain on an inconspicuous area.
• Don’t skip grits in between sanding: "If you start with a coarse-grit sandpaper, re-sand with every finer grit up to 180- or 220-grit," Marshall says. "If you start with a power sander, switch to hand-sanding for the final grit or two to remove any swirl-shaped marks a sander can leave behind. Your goal with sanding is to replace coarse scratches with finer and finer scratches until they don’t show up under stain."

Mistakes to Avoid

This is not a project to rush through. Breezing through steps without careful consideration can lead to mistakes like these:

• Poorly sanding the wood: Improper sanding can cause visible swirl or scratch marks that only become darker post-stain application. "Most staining problems start because the stain is being applied over leftover topcoat rather than clean, bare wood," Marshall explains.
• Applying too much stain: Applying too much stain creates blotches or tacky spots, McKenna says.
• Not reading the stain’s instructions: "Some water-based varnishes will not cure properly if applied over oil-based stain," Marshall explains. "Manufacturers also may formulate their stains to work specifically with their branded topcoats. It’s always a smart idea to read the fine print."