How to Find Designer Handbags at Thrift Stores (and Spot Fakes), According to Experts

Thrifting carries an undeniable frenetic energy. There’s the thrill of the chase, the surprises around every corner, the gems you score for a fraction of the price. Secondhand stores are treasure troves for all sorts of goodies, but today we’re zeroing in on thrifting for designer handbags. These luxe accessories can cost you hundreds (or thousands) at full price, but find them at your local thrift store or flea market for potentially huge savings.

Want to try your luck? Follow these expert tips for finding high-end purses at the thrift store, and you’ll increase your chances of scoring big.

Familiarize Yourself With Real Leather

While not every luxury handbag is made with real leather, this is often a defining feature of high-quality designer work versus a run-of-the-mill handbag. Familiarize yourself with the look, feel, and smell of a quality leather product, and you’ll be way ahead of the game. 

• Full-grain leather is the highest quality. Made from the top layer of the hide (preserving its natural imperfections), it offers both durability and a beautiful patina. 
• Top-grain leather, slightly lower in quality, is sanded and treated for a more uniform appearance.
• Genuine leather, despite its name, is a lower-grade option made from leftover layers. It's often less durable but more affordable. 
• Bonded or faux leather often shows signs of wear early on such as peeling or fraying. These are made with a combo of leather scraps and synthetic materials. 

A high-quality leather handbag has a smooth and velvety soft texture with a rich, natural grain that feels luxurious to the touch. Older bags may have a natural patina in some areas. Real leather also has a distinct, earthy leather aroma that’s free from chemical or plastic-like odors.

Allow Your Eye to Wander

Some secondhand stores put designer items behind a locked cabinet, so you can look here first if that’s an option. If not, then it’s time to put on your hunter-gatherer hat. In this case, thrifting for designer handbags is all about the long game.

Walk into a store without expectations, and allow yourself to peruse all the offerings. Give yourself time, look up, down, around, and under piles. "Allow your eye to wander," Belle Bakst, a fashion editor and content creator based in New York City, says. "Pick up the bags that catch your eye.” 

Take a Look at the Hardware 

Along with assessing the leather, take a good look at the hardware, including zippers, clasps, and locks, for a better idea of overall quality. Hardware on genuine designer bags should feel substantial—not hollow or lightweight, says John Smith, vice president of design at Poshele. He adds that the zippers should run smoothly and will often have brand engravings on the zipper handle, and the hardware finishes should be the same across the entire bag. 

Examine the Stitching 

Stitching is an additional detail to examine before buying a thrifted handbag. Designer purses are known for exceptional seaming work. Peter Martinez, designer and co-founder at Leather Skin Shop, says there should be no glue residue around edges or seams.

It should also be impeccably straight, even, and tightly stitched with no loose threads or gaps. The edges should be cleanly finished, often hand-painted or sealed, ensuring durability and a polished, refined appearance. This is true for both the exterior and interior of the bag. 

Check Inside the Bag, Too 

On that note, don’t forget to take a good look inside the bag. “A great thrifter will take extra time to have a thorough look at the bag when considering buying,” Bakst says. “Look inside the bag before moving on—sometimes the outside of a bag may look great but the inside will look like it's seen better days. This will also be how you check for labels or any matching pieces.” 

Look for Signs of a Fake 

Fake designer handbags tend to feel and look a little off, but it’s hard to put your finger on what’s amiss. Look for these signs of a fake handbag: 

• Peeling usually occurs with fakes since they tend to be made with plastic (pleather) and will continue to deteriorate, Bakst says. 
• Weird smells could be a sign you’re dealing with a fake handbag. It shouldn’t have a plasticky or chemical smell. 
• Sloppy stitching either on the interior or exterior is a major sign you found a fake. 
• Mismatched or poor-quality hardware is another sign to be aware of when thrifting designer handbags. Luxury bags pay attention to these details. 
• Incorrect logos are a dead giveaway of a fake bag, Martinez says. Research what the designer logo and lining should look like according to the era the bag was manufactured.  
• Fake authenticity cards are another factor to be mindful of. If there’s a card present (this may not always be the case for thrifted purses), Martinez says it should match the bag's serial number. 
  

Keep in mind that authentication features change over time. “What's true for a 2020 bag might not apply to one from 2000,” Smith notes. “When in doubt, consult a professional authenticator; it's worth the investment for expensive pieces.”

Know What’s Salvageable and What’s Not 

Not every thrifted designer handbag is worth paying for. If this is a product you intend to use, then make sure it’s completely functional and that any required repairs are doable. 

“You know you’ve struck gold with a thrifted handbag when the integrity of the entire bag is in great shape, meaning there are no visible tears or stains and it looks fairly new,” Bakst says. The grain on high-quality leather bags is often easily restored with conditioning and care and hardware can be polished, but be mindful of large rips and stains. 

“Steer clear of any stains on bags as staining can be nearly impossible to fix once they’ve set in,” Bakst says. “Odds are if it’s been sitting in a store for a while, they’re long set.” Also be aware of severely cracked leather, water damage, and non-functional straps or handles.