March Is the Best Time to Plant Bare-Root Trees—Here's How Experts Say to Do It

Give your trees a head start.

A person using pruning shears to cut roots of a plant being removed from the ground visible soil and roots
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VASYL MYKHAILENKO / Getty Images

  • Planting bare-root trees in March gives you the best chance for success, as trees are still dormant.
  • March offers the best selection of healthy, affordable bare-root trees, which are easier to handle and transport.
  • Early spring planting allows roots to establish before summer heat, promoting strong growth throughout the year.

March can be a restless time for many gardeners—the weather is finally starting to warm, and after a long winter, it's finally time to start growing again. Some tasks will have to wait, but one that you can cross off your list now is planting bare-root trees.

"These are dug and stored without any soil around their roots," says Lisa Tadewalt, a certified arborist and co-founder of Urban Forest Pro. "For them to survive, they must be planted while they are in their dormant stage—meaning before they have grown leaves and begun active growth."

So why is this timing so ideal, and how can you care for these trees after they've been planted? Here, we spoke to experts about everything you need to consider.

Benefits of Planting in March

So why should you plant your bare-root trees in March? There are a handful of benefits:

  • Best Selection: You can get the best planting stock in the best condition from tree nurseries in March, says Levi Williams, a certified arborist at Tree Scouts Tree Service.
  • Cost and Ease: Bare-root trees are usually less expensive and easier to handle than container-grown trees, says Paul Winski, a horticulture extension program specialist at Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Service. They also offer a wide variety of species and cultivars.
  • Dormant Season Perks: Cooler temperatures equal less stress for plants and trees when planting or transplanting, says Ward Dilmore, founder and head landscape designer of Petrus Landscaping.
  • Root Establishment: Early spring planting allows roots to establish before hot, dry weather, resulting in better growth through the year, Winski says. Bare-root trees often develop better root systems because there’s no pot-bound circling of roots.
  • Easier Handling and Transport: Lighter and less bulky without soil, bare-root trees are cheaper to ship and easier to move.

Best Varieties to Plant

The best trees for bare-root planting are those with vigorous, resilient root systems that can quickly regenerate roots after transplanting. “Because the bare-rooting process removes a lot of the smaller feeder roots, you want to choose a species that can produce new roots easily for a better chance of success,” Tadewaldt says. 

She recommends these for bare-root planting:

  • Fruit trees like apple, pear, cherry, and plum
  • Deciduous shade trees like maple, oak, elm, linden, and honeylocust
  • Some ornamental trees like crabapple, serviceberry, and redbud

“When choosing a bare-root tree, make sure it’s dormant but healthy, fits your hardiness zone, and is about one or two years old,” says Maksim Kazakou, resident botany expert at Plantum.

Trees to Avoid

Kazakou cautions against planting the following trees as bare-root:

  • Conifers
  • Trees with sensitive root systems (like magnolias)
  • Trees with an extensive taproot system

Planting Instructions

Planting a bare-root tree involves certain stages—below, our experts break down each one.

Preparation

Unpack the tree immediately. Remove any material holding the tree together before putting in a hole, says Williams.

Next, prepare the roots. Soak roots in a bucket of water for two to six hours—but not overnight, Winski says. If you can’t plant right away, keep the roots moist and shaded by covering with a damp burlap or mulch. Prune off any damaged or excessively long roots.

Site Selection and Digging

Make sure you choose the right spot. You'll need well-drained soil and adequate sunlight for your tree.

Dig a hole two or three times wider than—and just as deep as—the root system, Winski suggests. Do not dig deeper than the roots’ natural spread, and loosen the surrounding soil.

Planting

Ready to get started? Planting the tree is relatively simple:

  • Build a mound: Create a cone-shaped mound of soil in the center of the hole, Winski suggests. Spread roots evenly over the mound.
  • Keep it above ground level: The root collar—where the uppermost roots leave the trunk—needs to remain above ground level. Avoid burying it too deep in the soil, or the tree may die. 
  • Fill the hole: Fill halfway with backfill soil and gently tamp to remove air pockets. 
  • Deeply water: Water, fill the rest of the way with soil, and water again—even if you live in a rainy climate.
  • Avoid fertilizer: Do not add fertilizer at planting. Soil amendments and fertilizer can be used one year after the tree is fully established, Williams says. Do not use it before then.

Mulching 

Add a 2 to 4-inch layer of mulch around the base, Winski says. Be sure to keep the mulch 2 or 3 inches away from the trunk.

Immediate Care Instructions

For immediate care after planting your bare-root tree, Winski recommends the following:

  • Watering: Water thoroughly after planting. Keep soil moist—not soggy—for the first few months. Check moisture weekly.
  • Staking: Stake only if the tree is in a windy or exposed location. Use soft ties and remove stakes within one to two years.
  • Protecting: Consider using tree guards to protect from rodents, deer, or sunscald.
  • Pruning: Remove any broken or damaged branches only. Avoid heavy pruning at planting.
  • Monitoring: Check regularly for settling. The tree should not lean or sink deeper than planted. Renew mulch, as necessary.

Mistakes to Avoid

There are certain mistakes to avoid when planting and caring for bare-root trees, Tadewaldt says: 

  • Plant at the correct depth: This is the most important factor. The root flare —where the trunk widens at the base—should sit at or slightly above grade, or ground level. Planting too deeply can cause long-term health issues.
  • Spread the roots outward: Arrange the roots radially in the hole to prevent circling or girdling roots.
  • Backfill with native soil: Avoid heavy amendment, as this can discourage roots from spreading outward. 
  • Maintain consistent soil moisture: Keep consistent soil moisture during the first growing season. The soil should remain moist but not waterlogged. 
  • Monitor the tree for signs of stress: Wilting, delayed leaf-out, or dieback can all indicate water issues.
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