Common Sewing Machine Needle Sizes, Types, and When to Use Them

Along with a sewing pattern, thread, and fabric, you'll need the right sewing machine needle size and type for your project. Different fabrics require specific sewing machine needles. For example, common universal needles are best for simple fabrics, while other needle designs can penetrate thick or non-woven fabrics. In addition, needles come in different sizes to handle fabrics of all thicknesses. Read on to learn how to select sewing machine needle sizes and the types to help make your next sewing project a success.

How Sewing Machine Needles Are Sized

When looking at needles, you will see two numbers referenced on the needle. This is the sewing machine needle size. Most sewing machine needles indicate the same needle size in both European and American sizing.

European needles are measured from 60 to 110 and American needles are measured from 8 to 18. You will often see needles listed in both sizes (60/8, 70/10, 80/12, 90/14, or 110/18). Here are other general guidelines:

• The bigger the size number, the larger the needle.
• The thinner the fabric, the smaller the needle size needed for light sewing.
• The thicker the fabric, the larger the needle size needed for heavy-duty sewing.

Common Types of Sewing Machine Needles

Always use a brand-new needle when beginning a new project. Sewing machine needles are not meant to be used for sewing over and over again. Dulled tips on used needles can cause skipped stitches and uneven stitches. Listed below are common types of sewing machine needles.

Universal Needles

Universal sewing machine needles are the most common and used for many non-specialty and basic woven fabrics. These all-purpose needles usually come in a combination pack with a couple of sizes. With universal needles, remember that lighter-weight fabrics require smaller needle sizes and vice versa.

Ball Point Needle and Stretch Needle

Ball point and stretch needles are the second most common types used when sewing stretchy or knit garments. These closely related needles have medium ball points specially designed to prevent skipped stitches in knit fabrics. Use a ball point needle on most knits, but use a stretch needle with a narrower point for highly elastic materials and high-stretch knitwear like swim fabric.

Denim or Jeans Needle

A specialty jeans needle is designed to penetrate extra-thick fabrics, such as denim. This type of needle reduces the risk of needle breakage and skipped stitches. In the pack, you will usually find various sizes of denim needles. For example, use a higher needle size for thicker denim sewn into a jacket. Use a smaller needle size for pants sewn with thinner denim or denim with a little stretch in it.

Leather Needle

Use a leather needle when sewing leather, faux leather, or heavy non-woven synthetics. This needle features a sharp point and edges that cut the fabric as the needle inserts itself, which means the needle makes holes in the fabric for the thread. Sew slowly and carefully with this needle to reduce ripped seams and visible holes. Use a Teflon foot so the metal foot doesn't stick to the fabric and cause skipped stitches.

Embroidery Needle

An embroidery needle is designed to work on the fabric you're embroidering. This type of needle works with specialty embroidery threads and has a special scarf shape that guards against friction, allowing for trouble-free embroidery and decorative stitching.

Metallic Needle

Use a needle that's compatible with metallic thread when sewing metallics. This type of needle has a lengthened eye, a fine shaft, and a sharp point to prevent the thread from shredding and breaking. This needle is also compatible with monofilament (a synthetic fiber made of a single thread).

How to Choose the Right Sewing Machine Needle

When starting a new project, choose a new needle. Consider the type and weight of the material you're sewing. The back of a needle package lists all the fabrics compatible with the needle so you can make the right choice.

How to Insert a Sewing Machine Needle

Needles can be inserted into your sewing machine in different ways. Sometimes, needles are inserted where the eye of the needle is facing forward, and others require the needle to be inserted so that the eye is facing sideways. When your needle's eye (the hole) is facing frontwards, insert your thread from the front towards the back. When it is sideways, always insert from the left to the right. Check your sewing machine manufacturer's instructions for the best method.

And when you're ready, try your sewing machine on a new project: