8 Reasons Your Lavender Plants Are Dying—and How to Save Them

Lavender produces beautiful flowers, attracts powerful pollinators, and has numerous uses throughout the household. It can also be a bit tricky to grow yourself if you don’t know what issues to watch out for. Luckily, our gardening experts provide possible reasons your lavender might be dying, along with best practices to help those fragrant blossoms prosper. 

Wrong Variety

There are over 400 different types of lavender, so knowing your growing zone and what varieties do best in your area will ensure success. Janice Cox, author of Beautiful Lavender and member of the National Garden Bureau, recommends visiting local nurseries and farms to see the varieties that are thriving and doing well in your local area. "When it comes to most plants, local sources are usually best," Cox says. "Lavender does not mind cold weather in the winter as long as it is dry. A good way to select plants is by talking to other gardeners and growers. They will share with you which varieties they are growing and also which ones have failed. Learn from their successes and mistakes."

Wrong Soil

Lavender likes well-drained soil, says Anna Hackman, herb farmer and owner of The Naked Botanical. "I have killed my share of lavender until I figured out what it wants," she says. "It is used to growing in the Mediterranean area, where it is warm and dry. In New Jersey, we have clay soil, which holds water and causes the plant to rot, especially with our rainy springs. So I amend my soil with gravel and mound my lavender plants."

Harsh Climate

Many lavender varieties thrive in USDA hardiness zones 5 through 9, but temperature requirements vary by species. "Some prefer warmer climates and can’t withstand winter frosts, so you’ll need to dig them up and bring them indoors for the cold season," says Nastya Vasylchyshyna, resident botany expert at Plantum. "Therefore, before buying a plant, check its hardiness and make sure it’s suitable for growing outdoors in your region. If necessary, you can also mulch the soil to protect the lavender from winter frosts."

Wrong Planting Location

One of the most common reasons lavender fails in the garden is that its feet are too wet. "Lavender is a drought-tolerant plant that needs lots of drainage,” Cox says. "It does not like to have its feet or roots wet.”

When planting lavender, Cox always digs a hole first, fills it with water, and watches how quickly the water drains away. "Do this a few times to make sure you have a spot that drains well," she advises. "If not, you may want to choose a different spot or amend your soil with heavy bark or gravel for better drainage. You will notice that at most lavender farms, the plants are placed on a hillside or on high mounds of dirt—this is so that the water can drain away from the roots.

If you are planting your lavender in a container, the same rule applies. Cox often drills extra drainage holes in the bottom of her container. "When it comes to lavender, think drainage," Cox says.

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Overwatering

Overwatering starves lavender plants of oxygen, leading to root rot and dieback. "This hinders the root system from supporting the vegetative part of the plant, causing it to wilt," Vasylchyshyna says. "As a result, the stems droop and the leaves turn brown. In constantly moist soil, the plant also becomes more susceptible to infections."

Incorrect Pruning

Lavender has a tendency to become woody and stop producing as beautifully. "It doesn't die, but doesn't look good," Hackman says. "If you do prune, it depends on where you live. Some people say to prune in the spring and others in August—but I prune in the spring. When you prune, many people cut into the woody part and kill the entire stem. You want to cut above the new growth."

Lack of Sunlight

Lavender loves sunshine, so if it is not doing well or reaching for the sun, you may want to consider planting it in a different spot in your yard. "Lavender plants need full sun," Cox says. "In fact, lavender plants love full sun. Some varieties may grow in partial shade, but if you move them to a sunny spot, they will almost double in size."

Before planting, Cox suggests watching your yard closely and the amount of sunshine each spot gets in a day. "If you have a lot of shade, maybe consider putting it in a container and placing it on a sunny deck or patio instead," she says.

Fungal Disease

Experts warn that Phoma lavandulae, a severe fungal disease, causes yellowing and dieback of young shoots, as well as dark spots, drying, and dieback of stems. This disease can eventually lead to the death of the entire plant. "Unfortunately, this disease is incurable, so affected plants should be discarded," says Vasylchyshyna. "It can be triggered by excessive humidity, constantly wet soil, bad air circulation, low-quality or infected soil, or mechanical damage."

To prevent this, provide the lavender with optimal care and growing conditions. "Prune it regularly using disinfected tools to prevent the crown from becoming too dense," Vasylchyshyna continues. "Use healthy, strong plant material purchased from certified garden centers. Regularly collect and discard plant litter and weeds. Avoid pruning the lavender in rainy weather, using sprinklers, and don’t allow water droplets to remain on the leaves for a long time."

Best Practices

Janney suggests these tips and tricks for helping your lavender plants thrive:

• Amend the soil—especially if you have clay—to make it more loamy.
• Do not overwater, and let the plant dry out between waterings.
• Do not plant in an area with bad drainage.
• Use containers with good drainage and consider terracotta, which helps the soil dry out faster.
• Plant lavender in a full sun location where it receives at least six hours of sunlight daily.
• Plant in mid-spring so the roots have time to get established.
• Provide enough water when the plants are getting established, especially if it’s unusually warm.
• If you want the lavender to come back, opt for hardier varieties. In general, the more scented plants are more sensitive to extreme cold.
• Consider substituting with hardier plants such as catmint, salvia, Russian sage, rosemary, and thyme.