How to Safely Wash Dry-Clean-Only Clothes at Home

The dreaded "dry clean only" tag may have you skipping over that boutique item even though it would make a gorgeous addition to your wardrobe. But is there a way to wash dry-clean-only items at home? 

Below, garment care experts and laundry professionals share how to wash dry-clean-only clothes at home—and when a professional dry cleaner is absolutely necessary.

Which Garments Can—and Can't—Handle DIY Dry Cleaning

It's not so much about the fabric, explains William Wong, founder of Arterton, leading garment and shoe care experts in the United Kingdom, since almost all natural clothes like cotton, wool, and cashmere can be wet-washed. “It’s more about the construction of the garment,” Wong says. “If the coat, jacket, or garment has canvasing, structure, or trimmings (leather or otherwise), then it may be the case that the garment should not be submerged or washed in water.”

Scott Liebenberg, founder and designer at Tapered Menswear, has personally hand-washed viscose samples when testing shirt fabrics. “As long as the water’s cold and you don’t wring it, it holds up fine,” Liebenberg says. “Silk is trickier, but I’ve known people to get away with a gentle hand wash. The key is to avoid heat and movement. It’s not a fabric that forgives mistakes.” 

Same with cashmere, Liebenberg adds. “You can wash it at home, but only if you know exactly what you’re doing. That said, I always recommend testing a small hidden area first to check how it reacts.”

Always Professionally Dry Clean

If the garment is structured, lined, or has interfacing, just take it in, says Liebenberg. “Suits, jackets, anything with shoulder pads or shaping should not be risked,” he warns. “Also, leather, suede, or anything with embellishments should never go near a sink. I’ve ruined a wool-blend blazer early on by assuming it would behave like cotton. It shrank and warped at the seams. Lesson learned.”

Rayon is the other one people always underestimate, says laundry care expert Tom Ceconi, president of Heritage Park Laundry Essentials, which makes gentle, pH-neutral detergents. "It doesn't just shrink, it fundamentally changes shape, and there's no recovering it," he says, adding that "anything with a lining should always be dry cleaned, including dresses, coats, skirts, and pants."

How to Refresh Dry-Clean-Only Clothes at Home

Here are two methods for refreshing dry-clean-only clothes at home. Before you begin, be sure your garment doesn't meet any of the criteria that dictate it should absolutely be taken to the professionals, such as featuring a structured lining or embellishments.

Method #1: Hand-Washing

1. Choose Your Detergent: For these delicate pieces, a mild, pH-neutral enzyme-free detergent made for washing protein-based fabrics, like silk, wool, and cashmere, is required. Most commercial detergents contain harsh chemicals and are a bit on the basic side of the pH scale, which can damage delicate fabrics. Ceconi recommends Heritage Park Silk and Wool Detergent, an enzyme-free formula. "Enzymes break down protein in dirt and stains," Ceconi explains, "so they are not appropriate for laundering protein-based fabrics like silk and wool." 
2. Prepare Your Sink: Fill a basin or sink with lukewarm water and dissolve a capful of detergent, more or less, depending on the specific formula's recommendation.
3. Submerge and Swish: Submerge your item and swish it around gently. Allow it to sit in the solution, agitating the garment every few minutes, for no longer than half an hour.
4. Rinse: Use cool water to rinse the garment until all detergent has been removed.
5. Lay Flat to Dry: Do not wring out the fabric. Instead, lay your item on a towel and roll it to press out extra moisture. Then, lay your items flat to dry. Never put silk, wool, or cashmere in the dryer.

Method #2: Steaming

As an alternative to dry cleaning, Frej Lewenhaupt, co-founder and chief product officer of Steamery, recommends steaming the garment. “Steaming will remove bad odors and kill surface bacteria and is an especially great option for bulkier items that are more difficult to wash,” Lewenhaupt explains. “Many fabrics, including wool, cashmere, and silk, can be aired out to remove unwanted odors and prolong the time between washes."

Lewenhaupt recommends using a combination of airing garments outside, spot cleaning with an appropriate stain remover, and then steaming to freshen and deodorize clothing at home. Be sure to take caution when using your steamer: Dripping hot water on wool or silk can cause irreversible felting at a molecular level. If you aren't confident, consult a professional—that's what they're there for!