How to Grow a Plum Tree From a Pit So It Produces Delicious Fruit for Years

Wouldn't it be great to have free plums forever after buying just a single piece of fruit? You can if you grow a plum tree from a pit. The process can be a little tricky, but it can be very rewarding.

“[They] are usually grown through grafted trees,” says Lisa Tadewalt, an ISA-certified arborist and the co-founder of Urban Forest Pro. “You can grow them from a pit, but it's important to be aware that the results may be different from the fruit you took the pit from.”

If you're interested in giving it a try, our experts explain which plum varieties perform best when grown from a pit—along with the care requirements to ensure your new tree thrives.

What Varieties Do Well?

Tadewalt recommends starting with the American or Chickasaw plum tree.

“Depending on the area where you live, your best bet is getting an availability list from your local nursery and trying to match that as closely as you can,” she says. “The list will let you know what trees do well in your climate."

Unfortunately, she notes, the plums available in the nursery and what's available at the local grocery store won't usually match up. Instead, you could try getting one from a farmer's market.

Nastya Vasylchyshyna, a resident botany expert at Plantum, suggests using pits from wild varieties, like the Canadian or American plum.

“If you use a pit from a hybrid tree—one grown as a result of grafting—then it’s impossible to predict the appearance and taste of the resulting fruit,” she warns. “A tree grown from such a pit can differ from the mother plant—for better or worse."

How to Plant a Plum Pit

Once you've selected the right variety, it's time to get to planting. Here's everything you need to do to prepare the pit, and ensure that it thrives.

1. Select your fruit: Vasylchyshyna suggests choosing the pit of a big, ripe plum. In fact, you might want to choose several. Wash the pits to clear away any remaining pulp.
2. Let the seeds dry: Place them on a windowsill for several days, Vasylchyshyna says.
3. Remove the seeds: Use a small hammer or nutcracker and remove the seeds from the outer shells of the pits. “The success rate of the seed taking off and sprouting can be low, so I recommend doing 15 seeds per mature tree you wish to grow,” Tadewalt says.
4. Check viability: Place all the seeds in water, Vasylchyshyna says. Use the seeds that sink; discard the ones that float.
5. Trigger germination: Fold a wet paper towel in half and put the seeds inside. Place it in a clear plastic bag, remove the excess air, and seal it. 
6. Mimic winter: Place the bag in the fridge. Vasylchyshyna says the optimal temperature for stratification is 37 to 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
7. Check periodically: If you notice mold, then Vasylchyshyna recommends carefully replacing the paper towel without damaging the roots. Spray with water periodically to prevent it from completely drying out. 
8. Time to plant: It might take anywhere from two weeks to three months to produce small white roots, which will then turn green over time. Once sprouted, pot each seed 2 inches deep in separate containers and water the soil generously, Vasylchyshyna says.

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Care Recommendations

Once you’ve potted your new sprouts, you'll need to provide them with the proper care. Here's how the experts say to do it.

Soil and Container

Choose containers that are at least 4 or 5 inches in diameter and that have good drainage holes.

“Fill the pots with well-draining, loose, nutrient-rich, slightly acidic or neutral soil with a pH level of 5.5 to 6.5,” Vasylchyshyna says. “You can achieve this by adding extra fillers—like perlite or sand—to a fertile, all-purpose commercial potting mix that contains compost for seedlings. The fillers should make up about one-third to one-half of the entire growing medium.” 

Sunlight

Place the pots in a slightly cool spot that receives at least seven to eight hours of sunlight per day.

“When the weather becomes consistently warm, begin acclimating the plants to outdoor conditions,” Vasylchyshyna says. “Start by placing them in a partially shaded spot for one to two hours, then gradually increase the time outdoors and the light intensity to help the plants adjust without stress.”

If you choose to transplant the seedlings into the open ground, choose a sunny location with well-draining soil. “Avoid shady lowlands where rainwater might accumulate and waterlog the plum tree,” she says. 

Watering Routine

Water a young plum tree abundantly when the topsoil gets dry—this will help it develop a strong root system. “Manual watering is especially important during the first few years after planting,” Vasylchyshyna says. “Particularly in hot, dry summer months without rain.”

Fertilizing Needs 

You don’t need to fertilize your plum tree during the first year after planting. “Besides using potting soil to start the seedling, I don't recommend fertilizer,” Tadewalt says. “You could mulch the area around the tree with 1 to 2 inches of mulch in the fall.”

In the second year, Vasylchyshyna recommends applying a balanced mineral fertilizer in early spring. “Make sure to adjust the dosage according to the instructions on the packaging to prevent chemical burn,” she says.

Pruning

Pruning should have a purpose, says Tadewalt, such as removing damaged branches or ones that are growing too tall to reach. “You don't want to remove all the new growth, as that's where the fruit will grow,” she warns.

Once the tree is older, however, Vasylchyshyna says you can start to gradually shape its crown.

“The best time for formative pruning is from early to mid-summer,” she advises. “Choose a few large, strong branches that grow outward to serve as a skeleton and build an even, symmetrical crown around them. Don’t allow the center of the crown to become too dense, as poor air circulation creates favorable conditions for diseases.”