How to Propagate Amaryllis for Beautiful Blooms Every Winter

In the gloomy days of winter, there's no better way to brighten up your windowsill than with amaryllis blooms. These vibrant red, white, and pink flowers are a colorful antidote to seasonal blues; you can also propagate them to produce even more.

Amaryllis is relatively easy to grow and care for, so propagating them is very straightforward. In just a few simple steps, you can enjoy an unlimited supply of these cold-weather blooms for years—or gift some to friends for the holidays.

Propagating by Division

The experts we spoke to recommend propagating amaryllis by division first and foremost. "It produces genetically identical clones of the parent, so the same flower color and size," says Ankit Singh, assistant professor and ornamental horticulture educator at the University of Maine Extension. "It has a high success rate and low risk to the main bulb."

It's also considered one of the easier and faster propagation methods. Follow these steps for successful offsets:

1. Wait until the right time. Singh recommends waiting until after the amaryllis has flowered, or when the bulb is coming out of dormancy.
2. Carefully lift the bulb from its pot. "Brush off any excess soil," says Juliet Howe, horticulturist and founder of Twigs Design.
3. "Look for firm offsets beside the main bulb." Ideally, these offsets should be firm and have their own roots.
4. Gently twist the offsets to remove them from the main bulb. If they don't come away, you can use a sharp knife or pruners to cut them off. Make sure to sterilize your tools beforehand.
5. Dust the cut surfaces with fungicidal powder or cinnamon. This will prevent the bulb from rotting. Let the bulbs air dry for a few hours.
6. Repot each offset. "[The pot should be] no more than 1 to 2 inches in diameter larger than its roots or bulb," says Karen Musgrave, an associate at Hicks Nurseries and a certified nursery and landscape professional. "Leave the top third of the bulb above the soil line."
7. Water lightly, and let the top of the soil dry before watering again.

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Propagating From Seed

Another option is to propagate from seed; however, you'll have to be patient: "It takes five or more years for the bulbs to grow to the size necessary for flower production," notes Musgrave.

If you prefer to grow from seed, and you don't mind a challenge, then follow these steps:

1. Harvest seeds from a seed pod. These green pods will form behind a pollinated amaryllis bloom. "After four to six weeks of growth, it will turn yellowish and begin to split," says Howe.
2. Open the seed pod. Inside, you'll see black, peppery seeds.
3. Plant the seeds immediately. Sprinkle the seeds on the surface of the well-draining potting soil. "Press lightly to ensure good soil contact," says Howe. "Cover with a very thin layer of potting mix."
4. Transplant each seedling when it forms a tiny bulb and sprouts leaves. Repot them in individual pots.
   

Propagating From Cuttage

Another way to propagate is via cuttings; however, there are some major caveats to consider. For one, this method will require the most work, so it's not recommended for beginner gardeners. Howe notes that it also creates a high risk for fungal infections, since you're making multiple surface cuts. Your parent bulb will also be destroyed in the process.

The upside? All of the newly propagated bulbs will be identical to the parent. However, it's recommended that you only try this method with an old bulb that no longer produces offsets.

Follow these instructions if you want to try it—bear in mind that your new bulbs should flower after about two to three years.

1. Select a bulb. Howe recommends one that's large, firm, free of disease, and dormant.
2. Remove all soil and old roots. "Keep the basal plate—the flat bottom of the bulb—intact," adds Howe.
3. Cut into the wedges. Always sterilize your blade with rubbing alcohol first to prevent infection. "Slice the bulb vertically from top to bottom, like cutting a pie, into four to eight wedges, depending on size," says Howe. Each wedge must include a part of the basal plate for a bulblet to form.
4. Dust the wedges with fungicide and cinnamon. Let them dry out for 12 to 24 hours.
5. Plant the wedges in a pot with slightly moistened, well-draining potting soil. "Place the lower third of each wedge upright with the basal plate down, leaving the tops exposed," says Howe.
6. Transplant the bulblets and place each in its own pot when they grow to the size of a marble.

Care Instructions

It's crucial that you provide your newly propagated amaryllis with the proper care. Fortunately, the process is straightforward and similar to what you would do for other houseplants.

Indirect light is best—Singh recommends placing yours near a south, east, or west window with filtered light. "Water only when the top to 1 to 2 inches of the soil is dry to the touch, and make sure your pots have good drainage," adds Musgrave. They like a temperature between 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

Once the plants have active leaves, you can start lightly feeding them fertilizer. "Use a balanced, water-soluble one at half strength every two to four weeks during active growth," says Singh.