Is a Daffodil a Narcissus? Here’s the Real Difference, According to Experts

No flower signifies the arrival of spring more than the daffodil, which is one of the first perennials to appear when the weather warms. But some confusion exists when it comes to the nomenclature related to these cheerful plants, specifically how they differ from Narcissus. To help demystify this popular springtime flower, we spoke to gardening experts who explained the difference between daffodils and Narcissus.

The Difference Between Narcissus and Daffodils

Daffodils are specific varieties of flowers within the genus Narcissus, meaning that all daffodils are Narcissus, but not all Narcissus are daffodils, says garden author Kathy Jentz. The genus Narcissus consists primarily of spring-flowering perennials in the amaryllis family, whose species native range spans from southern Europe to northern Africa.

The Narcissus genus is split into 13 different subdivisions, with daffodils making up several divisions depending on the anatomy, and jonquils making up one of the subdivisions. There are more than 32,000 registered varieties of Narcissus cultivated by breeders around the world and about 40 different species.

The Difference Between Daffodils and Jonquils

Daffodils are also commonly confused with jonquils, another member of the Narcissus genus. The main difference between these two flowers is their appearance. Daffodils typically produce one flower per stem and feature wide, flat leaves and trumpet-shaped blooms in various color combinations.

Jonquils are usually smaller than daffodils and can yield multiple flowers per stem. These plants have more compact trumpets in the center of the flower and produce slender, dark green leaves. Unlike daffodils, jonquils come in only one color: a warm, sunny yellow.

Common Types of Daffodils

You'll find no shortage of daffodil varieties to grow in your garden. Jentz recommends growing a variety with different bloom times to extend the growing season. "You can get ones that bloom in early-season (February), mid-season (March), and late-season (April)," she says. "Be sure to check the bulb bag labels and catalog descriptions, so you can have flowers throughout spring." A few popular varieties include:

• Trumpet: Named for the flared center of the blossom that resembles a trumpet, these daffodils offer a traditional shape, combined with vibrant yellow or white—and sometimes both. Garden historian Jenny Rose Carey notes that large yellow trumpets are among the first to bloom in the spring.
• Double: These daffodils feature an added ruffled layer of petals in the center, creating a look more reminiscent of a rose or peony, but very easy to grow.
• Miniature: For a fun twist, try miniature daffodils. "Miniature daffodils look great picked and arranged with other small bulbs like scilla, species tulips, bluebells, and primroses," says Carey. "These are always some of my favorite arrangements of the year." She notes they are great for containers or rock gardens.

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Daffodil Growing Tips

• Choose a good location: Plant daffodils in an area of your garden that receives partial to full sun. The soil at your planting site should be well-draining, as daffodils don't want their roots too wet.
• Plant in fall: Daffodil bulbs require a chill period to stimulate growth, which is why they're usually planted in the fall. The idea is to allow them to start building their root systems as cold weather approaches, so that they're ready to burst into bloom in the spring. Daffodils are so hardy that they'll even tolerate snow on their leaves.
• Plant them to the correct depth: Plant daffodil bulbs to a depth about three times the size of the bulb. Since many daffodil bulbs are about 2 inches long, this means you'll be planting many varieties at a depth of about 6 inches. Plant them pointy end up, just as you would with other bulbs.
• Don't remove the leaves after bloom: Resist the temptation to immediately cut or mow down daffodil leaves after the blooms are done. "You must leave the long, narrow leaves on the plant after flowering," says Carey. "They need to photosynthesize and send energy back down to replenish the underground bulb for next year."
• Don't fold the foliage: Similarly, do not braid the daffodil foliage or tie it up with a rubber band before it has withered (about six weeks after the flowers). "These actions will all weaken the flowery show next spring," says Carey.
• Periodically divide the bulbs: Daffodils don't require much tending once you've successfully established the bulbs. "The only maintenance they ever need is to dig and divide them every 10 years or so if they get too crowded and their flowering slows down," says Jentz.